Cooking con mis amigas

A few months back I was at a party where my friend Sonia brought salsa.  I was in love!  I asked her if she could teach me how to make it and she enthusiastically agreed. We finally got together right before the holiday break to make two key dishes: red tomato salsa and papas verdes.

It was great to finally learn some Mexican dishes but it was even greater to hear all of Sonia’s stories during our time together.  She told me about the time she saw a truck drive by her place of employment carrying giraffes, elephants and other exotic animals.  It was the first time she had ever seen those animals in real life so she ran out of the store she was working in and followed the truck for five blocks, taking lots of pictures and marveling at seeing elephants in particular.  Then she realized that she had abandoned her post at work and ran back to find a boss who was a wee bit mad that she left things unattended.  That is, until she told him why she left.  Then he laughed and laughed and forgave all!  I love that she has such a vivid memory of the first time she saw an elephant and wish I could tell you an equally exciting story about the first time I saw an exotic animal not from the forests of Arkansas. 

My first cooking lesson with Sonia. 

A few weeks later, my friend Rosy asked when I was going to invite her to teach me how to cook, so I said come on over!  She taught me two new dishes using soy and dried chiles, and they were both bursting with flavor as well.  She also brought her daughters over to do their homework while she showed me the ropes and it was really fun having kids in my house!  They drew me pictures, wrote me sweet notes and even gave me a big pink balloon to keep me entertained for weeks (that thing has literally been floating around for 2 weeks now and shows no sign of deflating).  Best of all, they stayed to enjoy the meal with me and let me take the leftovers to work the next day for the enjoyment of my coworkers.  My coworker Fabricio said "Autumn, you gotta find a husband" in response to my ability to produce tasty food.  So at least now when people ask me why I'm not married I can say, well it's not because I can't cook ;) 

I asked Sonia if I could share her recipes and she agreed, so enjoy!  I also have recipes from Rosy if you want some soy ceviche and soy con carne tacos (and you know you do). 

Dining with Rosy and her girls.  So tasty!!

Salsa (with red tomatoes)
1 kilo de tomatoes
1 medium onion, chopped
1.5 cups of chopped cilantro
8 chiles de arbol (chiles cola de rata) – you might start with fewer if you don’t like a lot of heat
Salt (as much as you like)

• Wash all ingredients
• Char the tomatoes until a fork can enter them without any resistance and the skins are mostly blackened
• Let tomatoes cool for a few minutes then remove the skins
• Put 2 tomatoes, the whole chiles, and a pinch of salt in the blender and blend until very smooth. Then add the rest of the tomatoes and blend for approximately 5 seconds.  You want the be able to see some texture in that salsa so don’t blend it very much during the second turn. 
• Add the mixture from the blender to a bowl with the onions and cilantro and mix well. 
• Serve with corn chips or tostadas and enjoy! 

Papas Verdes
1 kilo of small potatoes
1 cup of cilantro
1 green chile pepper (stem removed)
1 stick of butter
1 Tbsp of chicken powder (or a chicken bouillon cube)
8 limes
A pinch of salt - pinch
A super-duper tiny spoonful of olive oil

• Wash all ingredients.
• Boil potatoes in a large pot with a little salt. If the potatoes are large, cut them in half or quarters first.
• Cut limes in half and squeeze out all the juice into a bowl. 
• Put chile, cilantro, lime juice, and chicken powder in blender and blend well.  Set aside. 
• Cook potatoes until a knife easily enters (but just barely easily enters).  Drain potatoes and remove.  Melt a stick of butter in the same pot.  Put potatoes back in the pot and mix well over low heat. If you did not cut the potatoes earlier, use a fork to put holes in each potato now (to allow more flavor to seep in). 
• Pour the blender mixture into the pot with the potatoes and mix well.  Continue to cook for 15-20 mins more until the mixture boils. When it boils, turn off heat and let continue to simmer with lid a little while longer.
• Serve and enjoy!

Note: for all cilantro, remove the bottom part of the stalk and only use cilantro leaves that look healthy and are not black/yellow.

Know Before You Go: Mexico Edition

If you’ve never been to Mexico, there are a few things that might surprise you and there are a few things you should know about how to be a good visitor.  You already got the 411 on missing toilet seats and the need to have toilet paper in your bag at all times, so let me share a few additional pieces of wisdom that can help ensure smooth sailing on your next trip south of the border.

 Appearances can be deceiving: behind these windows you'll find rooms for a luxury hotel. 

These flags are often a sign that a party is a'comin! Or that you just missed one. 

• If you are a woman traveling alone, pretty much everyone you meet is going to ask you if you are married.  If you’re not, you’ll usually get the follow-up question of “why not?”  I just stare at people with a disapproving look when they ask me that one.  You likely will get a lot of personal questions from strangers that you might not encounter back in the US, but remember that you can choose how to answer those questions and if you want to be truthful or not.  Maybe today you’re married to a male model/rugby player from New Zealand and you have six kids and a pet goat.  Or is that just me? 
• It’s considered rude to wear sunglasses or to rest them on top of your head when talking to someone (especially outside of tourist areas).  I had a hard time adjusting to this one as my eyes require constant, stylish shading when the sun is a’shining.  My language and culture teachers informed me that I could ask the person I was talking to if it was ok to put my sunglasses back on, which feels awkward, but technically is the polite way to go. 
• On those rare, rare occasions when you’re crossing the street as a pedestrian and a car waves you ahead to pass in front of them, it’s customary to show the back of your hand to give thanks.  When I raise the back of my hand at a car in the US, it has a very different meaning. 

Great courtyards like this one can be found in very unexpected places.

• When exiting planes and buses, it’s a free for all.  The notion of one row at a time doing the zipper merge simply does not exist.  If you don’t want the entire back half of a vehicle to exit before you, you gotta be aggressive getting into that aisle.
• Speaking of planes, you don’t need to remove your shoes or take out your liquids when going through airport security.  Each airline is also a little different.  Flying Volaris?  You need to get in line at the Volaris counter before you go through security to have them weigh your carry-on baggage and put a tag on saying it’s approved.  That includes getting a tag on your purse as well.  You’ll also have to pony up a credit card if you want anything other than water to drink on their planes.  Last time I flew they were charging over $4 US for a Coke!  If you fly on Interjet you also need to get the carry-on baggage weighed and tagged before security.  However, you can drink for free, enjoy a selection of free snacks and partake in some serious leg room!  They also have a special camera on some of their planes that lets you see the view from the front of the plane during takeoff and landing, which is both kind of cool and kind of unnecessary.

This new wing of the Cancun airport was super colorful!

• If someone other than the cashier bags your groceries at the store, or a random, uniformed person in the bathroom gives you a paper towel, it’s customary to tip them.  
• If you’re driving a car in a big city, there are often clowns, street performers and window washers who will avail you of their services and then come around asking for a tip before the light changes.  I advise avoiding the clowns at all costs because I do not like clowns. Creeeeeepy.
• There are virtually no public water fountains.  Puerto Vallarta recently installed public water fountains for people and dogs on the main tourist strip and that’s pretty much the only time I’ve ever seen them.  On the bright side, a lot of hotels have large garrafones of water available in the lobby or in central corridors on each floor where you can fill ‘er up for free.
• While shorts and tank tops are common to see in coastal vacation spots, they’re not really the norm while visiting big cities in central Mexico.  Don't be that tourist. 

This is a very important tip: if you find a cereal bar, go in IMMEDIATELY!  Seriously, you can get a big bowl of cereal with milk and/or ice cream! 

• People will often get on the bus selling candy and will insist that you take the candy.  They’ll then walk to the back of the bus, make their sales pitch, and then retrieve the candy from anyone who does not want to buy it.  I don't love having a product forced upon me, but here's my advice: take the candy, and then give it back if you don’t want it.
• In every city I've visited so far, I've noticed that most people walk really slowly on the sidewalks.  Try to indulge in that slower pace of life and not get annoyed by it.  If you really want to pass someone, you can either step into the street to pass or say a greeting from behind (like "buenas tardes - con permiso").  And don't be surprised if someone stops, steps aside and waits for you to pass them when you're still like 10-ft behind, because that happens to me all the time. 

Sidewalk scenes. 

• It's considered rude to turn down an offer of food without a good reason.  If I'm not full, I try to take whatever is offered.  However, if I really don't want to eat anything, I'll be honest and say "thank you but I just ate breakfast and I am full" or "thank you but I don't feel good today" or "oh thank you - I will try that in just a little while as I am still full from lunch." 
• Speaking of thank you's, if someone offers you something that you don't want, it's normal to just say "gracias" instead of "no gracias." If you say gracias and keep walking/don't reach for what they're selling, people understand that you really meant no gracias. 
• People will be SO appreciative if you a) try to speak even a little bit of Spanish and b) ask them about themselves or their beautiful country.  Spend a few hours on Duolingo before your trip and memorize some super basic phrases and you'll no doubt double your positive interactions with the locals.

So there you go.  After two years in Mexico, those are my nuggets of wisdom.  Go forth and travel with confidence my friend.

10 Reasons You Should be a Peace Corps Volunteer

Peace Corps is often touted as the “toughest job you’ll ever love” which is eerily accurate.  It’s hard to describe how something can be so awesome and so exhausting at the same time.  I’ve never been more uncomfortable or frustrated in my life than I have been at times during my service.  I’ve never felt more different and less able to express myself and be myself, than while operating in a different language and a different culture.  However, I’ve never had the opportunity to receive so much love and kindness, or the freedom to sleep in so late, learn so many new things, have so much fun, or understand who I am better than I do right now either. 

Well, I like to think I had all of those things when I started my service ;) 

Image from the Ad Council. 

Here’s why I think you should consider being a volunteer:

1. You really can make a difference.  It will likely be totally different than what you anticipated, and you’re not going to change humanity or bring about world peace, but your work will yield benefits for people in your community. 

2. Peace Corps service can help readjust the filter on your life to highlight those things that are really important to you.  You'll add to that list of what you do/don't want moving forward and will have an opportunity to really reflect on what kind of life you want.  If you don’t see the value in that, you need to sign up to serve today.  

3. It can also help you see what you’re capable of achieving.  I am super proud of myself for learning how to speak Spanish at such a late age, and for learning how to travel and live on my own in a foreign country.  You’re never too old to learn something new, and Peace Corps service will prove it!  

 

Learning how raicilla is made. 

4. You will gain a new appreciation for all kinds of things: the kindness of strangers, drinkable tap water, the power of public art, the craftsmanship of front doors, the ability to travel anywhere you want via public transportation, the thrill of a solid internet connection, and all kinds of small things you took for granted back home.  What you appreciate will differ based on your unique service, but you're bound to emerge a more aware and grateful person. 

5. You will experience the highest highs and the lowest lows, but you’ll grow from it all and get to know yourself in ways you never could have imagined.   

6. You will have an opportunity to explore a new country.  Your service is not about travel, but you will absolutely have opportunities to explore your country of service.  Bonus: you’ll understand the language and customs so traveling will be much easier and more rewarding than as a newbie tourist.

7. You will make friends for life with your fellow volunteers.  There’s simply no way to describe the bond that will form between you and other volunteers as you discuss how every single person has accidentally pooped their pants during their service.  Or so I’ve heard.

8. You get to live in another country.  That means you'll have time to really get to know a place, the different seasons and the people.  Plus, you will have experienced international domesticity! How many people can say that?!

Can you enjoy this view as a tourist? Sure, but people will have way more to talk with you about when they learn you live in a mountain pueblo in Mexico. 

You can't easily access this view as a tourist. 

You can learn new things, like how to finally keep plants alive. 

9. You will learn a new language. There were days during pre-service training when I would go into the women’s restroom and just cry because I was so frustrated and emotionally wrought from Spanish lessons.  It’s hard learning a new language.  Until one day, it’s not.  You learn how to let go of pride and caring that people will hear you saying the wrong thing.  You learn how to laugh at yourself and how you speak, in both your new language and your native tongue.  I was home at Christmas and saw a sign that said “joplimo mattress company.”  I asked my sister and brother-in-law “is that pronounced hop-lee-mo? I guess that must stand for Joplin, Missouri. (long pause) And I guess you pronounce the J since it’s in English.”  They both were like yeah, we weren’t going to say anything but we were wondering when you’d get there!  If you can’t laugh at yourself and revel in tales of how wrong/silly/ridiculous you were, you’ll never make it as a volunteer.  But if you can, you’ll be so much more empathetic with others and – I like to think – a better person to be around.  

10. If you weren’t adventurous before you became a volunteer, you will be afterwards.  You have to eat the weird foods that are presented to you.  You just have to do it.  Some of them will be amazing and some of them won’t be, but you won’t die wondering.  You will have explored.  You will have taken chances.  You will have lived.

Listen, serving as a volunteer isn’t for everyone, but it can be such a great experience (even when it’s not).  Would I serve as a volunteer again?  Absolutely!  I found my spark again, I learned a second language, and I got to know another country in a way that you just can’t on a tourist visa.  I found the best parts of me and the parts that I need to be aware of and work on.  I made friends for life and I gained an unbelievable amount of perspective.  And most importantly, I've got a huge arsenal of funny stories to share with you the next time we meet :) 

Why you should visit Isla Holbox

I should really tell you that you should never visit this fairy tale island because increased tourism is a double-edged sword for such a lovely, tranquil little place.  However, in the spirit of full disclosure, I will admit that this was the most heavenly vacation spot and that you should absolutely make the trek if you want a very non-resort-like beach vacation experience.

Located a 2-hour shuttle ride and 25-minute ferry crossing north of Cancun, Isla Holbox is about as far away from the vibe of Cancun as you can get.  For starters, 2/3 of the island is a natural protected area with a lush jungle vibe.  There are very few cars and most people travel by foot, bike, golf cart or motorcycle.  You can safely stroll down the dirt roads at all hours, or you can rent a bike or golf cart for a few hours or for the whole day.  While I did see some visitors from the US, the majority I encountered were from Europe and Mexico. 

One of many opportunities for swinging in the surf. 

One of many opportunities for lounging in the sea.

There are so many hammocks, and hammock chairs, on this lovely island.

Colorful bikes with baskets! They're everywhere!

View of the island from the ferry. 

At certain times of the year you can swim with whale sharks, visit nearby islands to view flamingos or check out the bioluminescence in the water at night!  If you’re adventurous, you can also go kiteboarding or explore all that beauty underwater.  I personally stepped on something that moved on the ocean floor and I flew out of the water like I had been attacked by an ocean predator.  The next morning, I saw three starfish in the same location so I think I was the one doing the attacking.

I visited Holbox at the end of January and it was pleasantly warm with a little bit of rain and spectacular cloud displays every day.  The water glistened with shades of turquoise, a gentle breeze and lots of palm trees providing shade, perfect for an afternoon nap.  Head out to Punta Coco for the best sunset views, or hang out on a swing at the Hotel Zomay beach bar for a second-best view.  There are large swaths of ocean where the water is shallow enough to walk for 100+ feet without getting your shorts wet, which makes you feel a bit like you are walking on water, and there are swing sets and hammocks available at multiple spots in the ocean shallows.  There’s nothing better than contemplating  your next steps in life on an ocean swing or in an ocean hammock.

There was some rain, but thankfully, there was also some solid sun.

Sampling of wildlife. 

Sampling of sunsets. 

There are several beach clubs where you can cop a squat for a few hours while swimming, lounging and enjoying food and drinks.  I normally don’t take pictures of my meals but the food on the island was so beautiful and so delicious that I simply could not help myself.  The island is also brimming with an exquisite collection of street art.  Make your way to the centro and simply wander down each street to discover one awesome piece of art after another. If you get tired, head back to the beach to look for one of the many huts with massage tables set up for one of the best hours of your life.  And then head to any other beach hut for some food and drink to continue replenishing your soul.

While the island does have cell phone and internet service in many locations, if you want to disconnect, you definitely can.  I stayed up late enough to see the glittering array of stars in the sky each night, but also got 10-12 hours of quality sleep each night.  No cars, no church bells, no fireworks or roosters.  It was heavenly!

So much glorious street art. 

So much glorious food. 

So many sights to help you relax.

There are lots of options for where you can rest your head, including hostels for around $10 a night, super fancy hotels, inexpensive and mid-range hotels, and hippy campgrounds.  There were three ATMs on the island when I visited, but I was warned that they may or may not be working on any given day, and cards aren’t accepted most places (including at many hotels), so get your pesos before you arrive and bring sunscreen, bug spray, flip flops and a hat for maximum comfort.

So there you have it.  Isla Holbox is a little slice of heaven.  If you want to see it in its prime, get there before celebrities start Instagraming it, and make sure you do your part to keep it clean and conserve water while you're a guest.